Sep 17, 2018

Jackfruit Farming

Jackfruit scientifically known as Artocarpus heterophyllius, lam, locally known as "nangka" or "langka" is a favorite dessert of Filipinos. It is one of the most widely grown fruit crops in the Philippines. It was reported that this fruit is one of the famous in the world because it produces the largest edible fruit that weighs as much as 50kg. Many people believe that the leaves of the jackfruit tree can cure skin diseases. 

The bast of the tree is utilized in making rope and clothing. Cebuanos use the wood of the jackfruit tree in making excellent guitars and ukeleles, that’s why jackfruit orchards are becoming increasingly popular in Cebu. More and more farmers are becoming aware of the versatility of the jackfruit and they are exploring still other possible uses for it. Aside from food, the jackfruit is also used for commercial and noncommercial purposes. The fruit, trunk, leaves, and roots can be utilized for household use or can be processed commercially. The trunk can be used as lumber or building material. The leaves can be used as medicine, fodder for animals, and compost. It latex can be used as paste or glue. The seeds can be used as food, for human consumption, feeds or planting materials while the roots can be used as handle for farm implements. Jackfruit grows best in deep, sandy loam to clay loam soils of medium fertility with good drainage. Fertility of the soils of medium fertility with good drainage. Fertility of the soil should be considered because of the rapid exhaustion of soil nutrients taken by the plants. The ideal pH of the soil for jackfruit ranges from 5 to 6.5. Distinct variations have been observed by the National Seed Industry council in Los BaƱos, Laguna and the Mandaue Experiment Station in Cebu city. 

VARIETIES 

 Several varieties of jackfruit are grown in the Philippines, however, the most important cultivars are the Sinaba and Tinumbaga. • Sinaba variety has thick flesh, small seed, and good eating quality. • Tinumbaga variety has thinner flesh, a stronger aroma, and sweeter taste than Sinaba. 

 PROPAGATION 

 Jackfruit is usually propagated by seeds or by asexual propagation. Farmers who propagate by seeds should select healthy, vigorous, and disease-resistant seeds from productive mother trees. A sexual propagation can be done by enriching or grafting. Among the grafting methods, cleft grafting appears to be the most effective as it is able to counter the devastating effects of a typhoon which usually destroys tall trees. A cleft grafted tree is high in genetic quality, grows short but strong in stature. It’s branches tend to spread sidewards. Plant seeds in seedboxes or tin cans. Clear and clean the field at least one year before transplanting seedlings to a permanent site. A few weeks before planting, dig holes about 60 to 80 centimeters in diameter and 40 to 50 centimeters deep. When planting, fill holes with fertile surface soil instead of subsoil dug out of the holes. Before transplanting, prune-two-thirds of the leaves of the seedlings. Cut leafy brnaches to prevent excessive moisture loss and take special care when transplanting because the jackfruit has a delicate root system. Also, planting distance should be no less than 10 to 12 meters between trees. Remove all weeds within a radius of one meter around the tree. Prune trees regularly to remove unnecessary twigs and branches.
FERTILIZATION AND IRRIGATION 

 Growing seedlings need ample nitrogen fertilizer while bearing trees need regular applications of phosphorous and potash. 

 1.) In the absence of soil analysis, apply as basal either manure or compost at the rate of 3kgs per plant or 2 metric tons per hectare. One month after planting, apply 100-150g ammonium sulfate per tree. After six months, apply an equal amount of 100-150g ammonium sulfate and towards the end of the rainy season. Organic fertilizer is advisable to apply around the trees. When trees start bearing fruits and during the start of the rainy season, apply 1/2kg-2kg complete fertilizer and 200g-300g muriate or potash (0-0-60) per tree. Every six months thereafter, apply complete fertilizer at the rate of 1 1/2kg-3kg per tree. 
 2.) Water requirement is less critical in jackfruit production, however, irrigate the farm during extreme drought. 

 WEEDING 

 Periodic ring weeding and underbrush shall be done every three (3) months. 

 PRUNING 

 Prune trees at two (2) years of age. Cut the top of the main stem leaving 2-3 meters above the ground to regulate the height. Apply fungicide on resulting wounds. Pruning consists of the removal of small unproductive branches as well as diseased and insect-damaged ones. Since fruits are usually produced on the trunk and large branches, the removal of unwanted branches would give more light to the developing fruits. In Thailand, a uniform system of pruning is followed, that is, by pruning the main trunk well above the bud union to induce the production of multiple branches close to the ground. Allow four or main branches to grow to carry the fruits, instead of distributing the heavy fruits on the main trunk and the smaller over to the side branches. This, system also opens the center of the tree for better light penetration and air movement. 

 PEST AND DISEASES 

 1.) Fruit fly - Like most fruit rrees, jackfruit is vulnerable to fruit fly infestation, a most destructive pest. The fruit fly lays its eggs under the skin of the fruit and which hatch in 5-6 days. The larvae work their way into the fruit, eventually causing rot and making it unfit for market. The larva comes out of the fruit and falls to the ground to pupate in the soil. An adult lays about 100 eggs in one oviposition. To control - Wrap fruits with empty cement bags or jute sacks. Spray wrappers with pesticide to reduce fruit damage. 
 2.) Twig borer - Borers attack the twigs and cause the affected twigs to dry up. An adult borer is slight gray in color and about 2 cm long. To control - Cut off all affected shoots and twigs and destroy them by burning before spraying the tree with the recommended insecticides with long residual effects. Spraying showed be done twice a month depending on the degree of infestation. 
 3.) Another common pest is the bark borer. To control - This pest remove the dead branches where it lays its eggs. Spray the recommended pesticides and bum affected twigs and dead branches. 
 4.) Jackfruit is also attacked by the fungal pink disease, especially during the rainy season. To prevent its spread, spray plants with sulphur fungicide at least twice a month during rainy season. Always prune and burn severely affected branches. 

 HARVESTING 

 Jackfruit bears fruit at three years old. About 10 fruits can be harvested the first time the tree bears fruit. The following are indicators of fruit ripeness: 
• when the last leaf on the stalk turns yellow; 
• the fruit produces dull, hollow sounds when tapped; 
• its well-developed and widely spaced spines yield to moderate pressure. 

 The time to harvest depends on how the fruit is to be Jackfruitused. If it’s for home consumption, pick fruit when the rind is soft, emitting an aromatic odor, and when the leaf nearest the stalk turns yellow. At this stage, the flesh of the fruit is yellow-orange, shiny and juicy. If you plan to sell the fruit, pick it when mature but still firm and without aroma. At this stage, the flesh is pale-yellow and crisp. Take extra care not to damage the fruit. When you cut the penduncle of the fruit with a sharp knife or sickle, be sure another person wearing hand gloves to protect his hands from spines will assist. When harvesting from tall trees, place the fruit in a sack to prevent it from falling to the ground. Tie a rope to the stalk, snap the fruit from the tree, and slowly lower the bundle to the ground. Harvesting should be done at mid - morning to late afternoon to reduced latex flow because, at this time of the day, latex cells are less turgid. This would minimize latex stains which give the fruit an unsightly appearance. Remove the retained peduncle and unwanted water sprouts from the trunk after picking the fruit. When handling the fruit, lay it against a railing with its stalk down to let the latex flow and coagulate. It is best to transport the fruits in single layers. Always put dried banana leaves between fruits and spread some on the container to prevent the fruits from getting bruises, scars, and breaks. Never insert a pointer stick into the fruit’s stem. Many people in the rural areas believe this technique hastens ripening but this has no basis. A cut on the stem only serves as an entry point for decay-producing organisms. The fruit usually weighs from five to 15 kilogram; bigger ones weigh more. Fruit experts or pomologists grade the fruit according to size: large, at least 20kg; medium, at least 15kg but no more than 20kg; and small, at least 8kg but not more than 15kg. Another way of grading jackfruit is according to condition. Grade No. 1 means that the fruit is fairly well-formed, free from damage by discoloration or scars, cuts, skin breaks, diseases, and insects. Grade No. 2 means that the fruit has no specific shape, though free from cuts, skin breaks, insects, and diseases. 

Sources: 1. Technoguide Series, Jackfruit DA-RFU 8, eastern Visayas Integrated Agricultural Research Center (EVIARC) 2. Asexual Propagarion in Jackfruit, EVIARC leaflet No. 1 3. Jackfruit Delights, EVIARC

Sep 15, 2018

Nata de Coco from Coconut Water or Milk

NATA DE COCO FROM COCONUT WATER 

Materials: Coconut water Acetic acid Refined sugar Nata starter Ammonium phosphate 

Pieces of equipment: Weighing scale Strainers Wide-mouthed glass jars or basins Kettles 

 Procedure: 
 1. The collected coconut water is filtered through a cheesecloth. One hundred (100 gms.) refined sugar and 5 grams monobasic ammonium phosphate is mixed for every liter of coconut water in a container. The container is covered and the mixture allowed to boil. It is then allowed to cool after boiling and 6.9 ml. of glacial acetic acid is added. 
 2. 110-150 ml. of starter (available at ITDI, DOST) is added to the mixture. It is subsequently transferred to big mouthed clean jars leaving ample space atop mixture and covered with clean cheese cloth. The culture is allowed to grow at room temperature for 15 days or more. Note: Do not move jars during growth period. 
3. Harvest is ready after 15 days or more, making sure that all conditions are aseptic so as to enable one to reuse the remaining liquid which serves as starter for succeeding preparations. 
 4. Dessert Making. The "nata" is cut into cubes and is subjected to a series of boiling with fresh water until acidity is totally removed. One kilo of refined sugar is added for every kilo of nata and are mixed. It is brought to boiling until the "nata" cubes become transparent.
NATA DE COCO FROM COCONUT MILK 

Materials: 1 kilo Grated coconut 600 gms. Refined sugar 1/2 liter Coconut water 12 liters Ordinary water 2 liters Nata starter (available at ITDI, DOST) 325 c Glacial acetic acid (available in drugstores) 

Procedure: 
1. Extract the cream from the coconut, strain through a cheesecloth. 
2. Mix all ingredients. 
3. Transfer to big mouthed clean jars and allow around 2-3 inches in height of the liquid. 
4. Cover with a clean cheesecloth. The culture is allowed to grow at room temperature for 15 days or more. Note: Do not move the jars during growth period. 
5. Harvest is ready after 15 days or more, making sure that all conditions are aseptic so as to enable one to reuse the remaining liquid which serves as starter for succeeding preparations. 
6. Dessert Making: The "nata" is cut into cubes and is subjected to a series of boiling with fresh water until acidity is totally removed. One kilo of refined sugar is added for every kilo of nata and are mixed. It is brought to boiling until the "nata" cubes become transparent. 


 Source: Technology developed by: ITDI (DOST)

Mushroom Farming


Materials:

Rice straw, 500 kg. (sugarcane bagasse, sugarcane leaves as substitutes)
Ammonium sulfate, 2%
Lime, 4%
Chicken manure (dried), 15-25%
Calcium sulfate, 2-2.5%
Urea, 1.5%
Potash, 1.5-2.0%
Water

Equipment:

1.5m x 10m x 1m compost bed
The Growing House

Procedure:

1. Preparation of compost - Straw is filed on the compost bed and water is sprinkled as filing is being done until water overflows on the sides. The pile is turned every fourth day. Chicken manure and urea are added on the first turning and ammonium sulfate and 2% lime on the second turning. The lumps formed are broken during the fermentation. Calcium sulfate, potash and the remaining 2% lime is supplemented on the third and last turning. Composting is completed for 16-20 days, depending on the rate of fermentation.




2. Bedding - In the newly composted materials are placed on shelves to a thickness of 12-15 cm. inside the growing house. The growing house must be enclosed for 5 days to conserve heat and increase the temperature to 55-65 C.

3. Planting and Casing - One-half kg. spawns per square meter of the bed are planted. The beds are then covered with 1.2 cm. soil that is obtained one (1) meter below the surface and previously mixed with 1% lime. The growing house is closed for two (2) weeks with occasional checking of spawn run. At a temperature of 17-22 C and a relative humidity of 85-90%, the first crop is harvested 20 days after casing.

4. Care and Management - To prevent the contamination of white mold (Monilla sp.), green molds Penicillin sp.) and blue molds (Trichoderma), the following are employed:

a. Spot spray with Benlate at 1 tbsp. per 1/3 gallon of water.
b. Spray Azodrin to control millipedes
c. Spray ferrous sulfate at 200 ppm concentration to induce uniform break or pinhead formation.
d. Spray with Fuxal, a liquid fertilizer at a concentration of 1,000 ppm after the break.
e. Spray with tap water when relative humidity becomes lower than 75%.

Source and photo courtesy: ITDI (DOST)

Sep 14, 2018

Water Melon Farming

Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus

 Watermelon, locally known as pakwan or sandia, is one of the more popular fruit vegetables in the Philippines, especially during summer. Preferred varieties are Sugar Baby and Charleston Gray. Varieties with yellow flesh and rind are not very popular. Watermelon is planted to about 5,000 ha, the bulk of which is planted during the regular season (October to January) There are a few commercial growers during the off-season in Marinduque, Sorsogon and Pampanga. 

  Varieties 

 Watermelon has the following varieties 
* Sugar Baby : round and dark green with red flesh. 
* Goody Ball : round and dark green with red flesh. 
* Charleston Gray : oblong and light green with red flesh. 
* Maharlika : round and dark green with red flesh.
Soil Requirements 

 Watermelon grows best in dry, hot areas. It is best to plant before December. With proper management, watermelon can be grown in clay soils. Production is best, however, in sandy loam to clay loam soil. 

Land Preparation 

 Prepare the soil thoroughly by plowing and harrowing twice. Prepare adjacent beds 0.75-1.0 wide. In between the beds, provide a space 0.5 m wide as canal for furrow irrigation, or as a pathwalk for manual watering. The next adjacent bed should be 5-7m from center to center of the canal. Apply 5-10 t/ha animal manure and 5-7 bags/ha of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) several days before planting. Cover with plastic mulch, perforated 0.4-0.5 m apart. 

Planting and Maintenance 

Seedling Production A 1-ha production area requires 300-500 g seeds or 6,000 to 10,000 seedlings. Soak seeds in water for 30 min and wrap in damp cloth overnight. Sow singly in 4 x 6 (inches) plastic bags with 1 part garden soil, 1 part animal manure or compost and part rice hull ask or wood ash. Place in partial shade and expose to full sunlight one week before transplanting. Irrigate before transplanting. Transplant one seedling per hill. Irrigate immediately. Plant corn as trap crop and windbreak every 10-15m. Plant marigold as pest repellant. 

Pruning and Fruit Thinning Pinch off the main shoot after the 5th node. Allow two major vines to develop. Remove the first female flowers or fruits on the major vines. Allow 2-3 fruits/vine on the 10th and 12th nodes and thin to 1-2 fruits /vine depending on variety. 

Nutrient and Water Management 

 Side-dress with 10-20 g/hill 14-14-14 every two weeks until the onset of female flowers. At fruit setting, side-dress with 10 g urea (46-0-0) and muriate of potash (0-0-60) at 1:1 ration 2 to 3 times every two weeks. Irrigate regularly at 7-10 days interval or depending on the growth of the plants. Stop irrigation two weeks before harvesting. 

Pest and Disease Management * Cucurbit beetle : Spread wood ash; spray carbamates * Cutworm : Spray tobacco extract or Bacillus thuringiensis * Aphid/thrips : Use plastic mulch; spray hot pepper extract * Leaf miner : Spray fipronil or Chlorox * Downy mildew : Spray with mancozeb/Acrobat; spray with compost tea (Compost tea is prepared by fermenting compost for 10-14 days. The effluent is sprayed to control foliar disease). * Anthractose : Spray with captan/Bentale; spray with compost tea 

Harvesting Harvest at 75 to 85 days from transplanting depending on variety. The indices of maturity are dried tendrils near a fruit and yellowing of the blossom end. 


Source: PCARRD Production Guideo on Watermelon; photo from www.ashycook.topcities.com

Sep 10, 2018

Growing Mud Crabs

Ang alimango o mudcrab ay itinuturing na isang mahalagang pagkain mula sa dagat . Mainam pagkakitaan ito dahil masarap ang lasa kaya mataas ang halaga sa merkado. Ang buntis na alimango o gravid o pregnant na maraming itlog at aligue ay iniluluwas sa ibang bansa tulad sa Hapon, Tsina, Honkong, at Taiwan. Naniniwala ang mga intsik na ang alimango ay may dalang katangiang gamot na makakabuti sa mga nagkakaedad at mga nagpapagaling sa sakit. 

Uri ng Alimango 

Hindi lahat ng nag-aalaga ng alimango ay alam kung alin ang pinakamagandang uri dahil sa biglang tingin, halos magkapareho ang anyo. Lingid sa ating kaalaman ang may pinakamataas na uri at pinakamahal ang presyo ay ang uring Scylla o mas kilala sa tawag na higanteng alimango o "king of crabs". Ito ay may apat na uri: Scylla serrata, Scylla olivacea, Scylla traquebarica, at Scylla paramamosain. Ang Scylla serrata ang pinakapaboritong alagaan ng mga magsasaka, madali itong palakihin at patabain. Mas mabilis lumaki ang uring ito. Ang iba ay tumitimbang ng 1 kg. pagkaraan ng 6 na buwan. Kapag palagian o regular na pinapakain, maayos itong nabubuhay sa dagat-dagatan of pond. Bihira itong naghuhukay sa putik o burrow kung kaya walang napipinsalang dike. Ang maliit na alimango o crab seeds ay hinuhuli ng mga mangingisda sa tabing dagat at sa iba pang tirahan ng alimago, at ipinagbibili sa mga fishpond operators.
Ang alimango ay pinalalaki sa tubig na pinaghalong tabang at alat o brackish water. Maaring pagsabayin ang pag-aalaga ng alimango at bangus, subalit hindi ang alimango at sugpo dahil kinakain ng alimango ang sugpo kapag nagsimula nang magluno ang huli. Kailangan lagging may mapagkukunan ng semilya o crab crab seeds sa lugar na pagtatayuan ng crab farm. 

Pag-aalaga at Pagpapataba ng Alimango 

A. Unang Paraan 
1. Pumili ng lugar na may sapat na brackish water, 10-20 part per thousand [ppt] ng kaalatan. 
2. Tiyakin ang uri ng lupa ay maputik mabuhangin o sandy nived at hindi malagkit.  
3. Magsala-sala ng kawayan, dalawang metro ang taas parang banig. Ito ang ibakod sa dagat-dagatan. Itusok sa lupa ang kawayan, dalawang pulgada ang lalim ng pagkatusok para sa maayos na pagkatirik nito. Mula sa bukana ng dike, lagyan ng banatan o bamboo screen ang pangunahing dike upang hindi makawala ang alimango.
4. Patubigan ang dagat-dagatan, na may 50-70 metro ang lalim. Kailangan may maayos na daluyan ng tubig para mapanatiling malinis ang tubig. 
 5. Ilagay ang 2-3 piraso ng katang o batang alimango na may timbang na 10-15 gramo bawat isa. Sa bawat isa. Sa bawat ektarya kinakailangang maglagay ng 2,000-5,000 semilya o crab seeds. 
 6. (a) Hindi malaking suliranin ang pagkain sa mga semilya dahil kumakain ito ng lumot na tumtubo sa palaisdaan. (b) Pakainin ang lumalaking alimango ng maliit na isda, tinatawag na transhfishes, 5-8% ang dami batay sa timbang ng alimango. Timbangin ang alimango kada 20 araw upang malaman ang tamang dami nang ipapakain. 
 7. Anihin ang alimango pagkaraan ng 90-120 araw. 

  B. Pangalawang Paraan 
1. Alagaan ang alimango sa lugar na ang tubig ay may sapat na alat, 10-20 ppt salinity. 
2. Gumawa ng bamboo cages, mga hawlang yari sa kawayan isang talampakan ang taas at isang talampakan din ang luwang. 
3. Sa bawa't hawla, lagyan ng alimangong may timbang na 150-200 gramo. Ilagay ito sa fishpond at alagaan ang mga alimango sa loob ng 15 araw. 
 4. Dalawang beses na pakainin ng 10-20 gramong "trashfishes" sa isang arw (isa sa umaga at isa sa hapon). Dagdagan kung kinakailangan. 
 5. Pagkalipas ng 15 araw, mapupuna na ang balat nito sa likodo carapace ay 12-15 sentimetro na ang lapad. Ang bawat alimango ay tumitimbangng mga 250-300 gramo. Ito ay palatandaan na ang mga alimango ay maari nang anihin at ipagbili. 

  Pag-aani 
 1. Handa nang ipagbili ang mga alimango kapag ang isa o dalawang piraso ay tumitimbang ng isang kilo. 
 2. Ang alimango ay hinuhuli sa pamamgitan ng bintol (traps), panukot (hooks), sakag (scissor net) at pante (gill net). 
 3. Ang mga alimango ay ipinagbibili ng buhay at puwedeng manatiling buhay kahit wala sa tubig ng pitong araw. Kailangan lamang na panatilihin sa mahalumigmig na lagayan at palaging basain ang alimango. 
 4. Talian ang mga alimango ng tuyong dahon ng sasa magkabilang sipit malapit sa tiyan.


Source: 1. SEADEC Asian Aquaculture, Vol. XXI No. 4 Aug. 1999;2. Pag-aalaga ng Alimango, RFU IV; 3. Crab Farming, PNB Pangkabuhayan ng Bayan; 4.http://www.da.gov.ph; photo from www.goingrank.com