Various Ways to Process Mango for Your Home Based Business

The procedure below are ways to process Mango for your small scale home based business. These products are popular as pasalubongs among tourists. The procedure on this post include ways, how to make:

* Frozen Mango
* Mango marmalade
* Mango tomato jam
* Dried Mango
* Mango Chutney
* Mango halve in syrup
* Mango jam
* Mango juice
* Mango puree
* Pickled mango
* Sweet sour mango

DRIED MANGO

INGREDIENTS EQUIPMENT/UTENSILS:

rareripe (carabao var.) mango stainless-steel knife
refined sugar mechanical drier
confectioner's sugar wire trays lined with sinamay or cheesecloth
sodium metabisulfite (or stove and LPG
combination of sodium
erythorbate and citric acid), food grade

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

OPP or PE plastic bags of 0.003 mm thickness

PROCEDURE:

1. Wash mangoes to remove surface dirt.
2. Peel mangoes using stainless steel peeler; slice along its lateral axis from both sides of the middle seed section, and cut the cheeks into pieces with a thickness of approximately 1.5 cm.
3. Add white sugar (50% by weight) to mango slices. The sugar is allowed to melt in the mangoes. (Another method of syruping is by quick process in which a mixture of 50 parts sugar and 50 parts water is heated and added to the mango slices.)
4. Heat the mangoes until the slices become translucent. Cool.
5. Add 0.1% of sodium metabisulfite (1 g for every kilogram of mango slices). Mix thoroughly.
6. Soak mangoes in syrup for at least 18-20 hours. Drain. Rinse slices with running water.
7. Lay mango slices on trays lined with cheesecloth. Dry in a cabinet drier at 60°-65°C for 10-14 hours. Drying may be done in a solar drier as long as drying area is clean and free from dust, rodents and other insects.
8. Remove from trays and loosely pack dried mangoes in ordinary plastic bags. Allow mangoes to sweat at ambient condition for 18-24 hours.
9. Roll in confectioner's sugar. Remove excess coating through straining or brushing.
10. Pack and seal in OPP or PE plastic bags.
11. Store in a cool, dry place.


FROZEN MANGO

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

rareripe to ripe mangoes (carabao stainless steel knives
or piko variety) bowls
refined white sugar
ascorbic or citric acid or kalamansi PACKAGING MATERIAL
juice polyethylene bags

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort rareripe or ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Slice mango into halves. Scoop out edible flesh.
6. Mix gently with sugar (5:1) containing 0.1% ascorbic or citric acid* or kalamansi juice (1 tsp kalamansi juice for every 2 cups of sugar).
7. Pack in polyethylene bags. Seal.
8. Freeze immediately (0° to -25°C).

* 0.1% ascorbic acid = convert to 0.001 = 0.001 x 1 kilo = 0.001 kg or 1 gram for every kilo
0.3% citric acid = convert to 0.003 = 0.003 x 1 kilo = 0.003 kg or 3 grams for every kilo

MANGO MARMALADE

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

ripe mangoes (carabao or Waring blender or a coarse sieve
piko variety) stainless steel knives
refined white sugar stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
citric acid measuring cups
lemon rind wooden spoon

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

sterilized glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load. Drain.
4. Slice mango into halves. Scoop out edible flesh.
5. Pass through Waring blender or coarse sieve.
6. Steam blanch lemon rind in a steamer for 5 minutes. Air cool.
7. Mix the pulp with an equivalent amount of sugar (1:1).
8. Heat over low fire, stirring constantly. Add lemon rind. When almost thick, add 0.3% citric acid* based on the weight of the pulp used.
9. Continue heating until temperature is 105°C (221°F) or until the mixture can be spooned out.
10. Fill into sterilized jars. Seal tightly.
11. Air cool. Label and store.

* 0.3% citric acid = convert to 0.003 = 0.003 x 1 kilo = 0.003 kg or 3 grams for every kilo


MANGO CHUTNEY

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

4 cups sliced green mangoes stainless steel knife
(carabao or piko variety) paring knife
½ pc large ginger root cutting or chopping board
1 clove garlic measuring cup
8 pcs native onions saucepan
2 pcs hot pepper wooden spoon
1 small box raisins
2 cups vinegar PACKAGING MATERIAL
3 cups white sugar sterilized glass jars with
4 tbsp coarse salt PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort green mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Peel mangoes, remove seeds, and slice into longitudinal pieces of ¼-inch thick.
6. Add salt to the sliced green mangoes. Soak overnight.
7. Drain the salted mangoes.
8. Boil vinegar and sugar. Add spices. Simmer for 5 minutes.
9. Add sliced mangoes and cook until thick.
10. Pack in sterilized jars. Seal.
11. Air cool. Label and store.


MANGO HALVES IN SYRUP

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

firm rareripe or ripe mangoes sharp stainless steel knives
(carabao or piko variety) stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
refined white sugar stainless steel basting spoon
calcium chloride (CaCl2), optional steamer

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

2T cans (or C-enameled) or sterilized glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Select firm rareripe or ripe mangoes that are free from bruises and other blemishes.
2. Weigh, sort mangoes.
3. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
4. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
5. Drain.
6. Slice mango into halves. Scoop out edible flesh and place directly into cans.
7. Prepare medium syrup (35°Bx, approximately 1 cup sugar for every 2 cups water). If desired, use 50°Bx syrup (1 cup sugar for every cup water).
8. Pour hot syrup into cans or glass jars. Observe proper headspace.
9. Exhaust (remove air) by heating the filled cans or bottles over a steamer until the internal temperature of the glass or can reaches 82°C).
10. Seal cans or cap jars tightly.
11. Process in water at boiling temperature (100°C or 212°F) for 25 minutes.
12. Cool cans in running water. Air cool glass jars.
13. Label and store.

Note: CaCl2 may be added to improve texture as long as it does not exceed 0.07% based on the weight of the syrup.

MANGO JAM

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

ripe mangoes (carabao or piko variety) Waring blender or a coarse sieve
refined white sugar stainless steel knives
citric acid stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
measuring cups
wooden spoon

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

sterilized glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Slice mango into halves. Scoop out edible flesh.
6. Pass through Waring blender or coarse sieve.
7. Mix the pulp with an equivalent amount of sugar.
8. Heat over low fire, stirring constantly. When almost thick, add 0.3% citric acid* based on the weight of the pulp used.
9. Continue heating until temperature is 105°C (221°F) or until the mixture can be spooned out.
10. Fill into sterilized jars. Seal tightly.
11. Air cool. Label and store.

* 0.3% citric acid = convert to 0.003 = 0.003 x 1 kilo = 0.003 kg or 3 grams for every kilo


MANGO JUICE

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

2½ cups comminuted ripe mangoes Waring blender or a coarse sieve
(carabao or piko variety) stainless steel knives
½ cup refined white sugar stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
¼ tsp citric acid (food grade) measuring cups
stainless steel basting spoon
PACKAGING MATERIAL cooking kettle
2T cans (or C-enameled) or sterilized
glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Slice mango into halves. Scoop out edible flesh. Separate flesh from the seed using blunt edge of knife being careful not to include the fibers.
6. Comminute the flesh using a Waring blender or coarse sieve to obtain smooth puree.
7. Add sugar equivalent to 1/5 its volume. Adjust flavor by adding citric acid.
8. Pasteurize until the internal temperature of the mixture reaches 82°C (180°F).
9. Fill into cans or sterilized jars leaving ¼-inch or 1/3-inch headspace.
10. Seal immediately and process at 100°C (212°F) for 10 minutes.
11. Cool cans in running water. Air cool glass jars.
12. Label and store.


SWEET SOUR MANGO

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

fresh mature green mangoes (carabao stainless steel knife
or piko variety) pickling jar
refined sugar bowls
salt

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

sterilized glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort green mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Peel mangoes, remove seeds, and slice into longitudinal pieces of ¼-inch thick. (If desired, the fruits may be used unpeeled).
6. Add salt equivalent to 10% of the weight of the mango slices.
7. Store overnight in a refrigerator.
8. Drain, wash and squeeze out excess juice.
9. Soak in thick syrup (50°Bx - approximately 1 cup water to 1 cup sugar) for at least two days.
10. Store in refrigerator until ready to serve.

Note: For longer storage under refrigerated conditions, the following modifications of the procedure are necessary:

11. Follow steps 1-9 as indicated above.
12. Drain mango slices from the syrup. Boil the syrup.
13. Rinse drained mango slices in hot water.
14. Pack in glass jars and pour hot thick syrup containing 0.01% sodium benzoate based on the weight of the syrup (approximately ¼ tsp sodium benzoate for every 4 cups of syrup). Leave 1/3-inch headspace.
15. Seal. Invert glass jars for 2 minutes and immediately cool in running water.
16. Label and store in refrigerator.

PICKLED MANGO

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

fresh immature green mangoes (carabao stainless steel knife
or piko var.) stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
10% brine (approximately 1½ tbsp coarse chopping board
salt for every cup of water; boil and cool) pickling jar
stove

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

sterilized glass jars with PVC caps

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort green mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Peel mangoes, remove seeds, and slice into longitudinal pieces of ¼ inch thick. (If desired, the fruits may be used unpeeled).
6. Place in pickling jars. Add 10% brine solution*.
7. Let stand for at least a week until the mixture has a pleasant fermented odor. Stir the mixture daily.
8. Remove mango slices from the brine. Rinse mango slices with boiling hot water. Pack in jars.
9. Boil the brine and remove the scum if there is any.
10. Fill the jars containing mango slices with boiled brine. Leave 1/3 inch headspace. Seal. Cool. Label and store.

*10% brine solution = 1 part salt to 9 parts water


MANGO-TOMATO JAM

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

ripe mangoes stainless knife
ripe tomatoes stainless peeler
refined sugar stainless colander
stainless mixing bowls
PACKAGING MATERIAL stainless kettle
sterilized glass jars with PVC caps stainless/wooden ladle
stove

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort rareripe or ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Blanch the tomatoes, remove the seeds and chop finely.
6. Combine the mashed tomato and mango.
7. Add 1½ cups sugar for every 2 cups of the mashed mixture.
8. Cook the mixture until thick and transfer while hot to well-sterilized jars and seal tightly.
9. Process for 20 minutes.
10 Air cool, label and store.

MANGO PUREE

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

Mango puree is the extract obtained from mango pulp and does not contain added water, sugar or any other ingredient. This means that 100% of it is mango.

INGREDIENT UTENSILS:

ripe mangoes (carabao var.) stainless steel knife
stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
stainless steel scooping spoon
blender
PACKAGING MATERIAL double boiler
8-oz sterilized glass jars casserole
with new PVC caps stove
thermometer

PROCEDURE:

1. Weigh, sort rareripe or ripe mangoes.
2. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
3. Soak in 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
4. Drain.
5. Slice along its lateral axis from both sides of the middle seed section, scoop out mango flesh and peel seeds.
6. Grind mango flesh thru blender.
7. Pasteurize the pureed mango at 80°C for 10 minutes using double boiler.
8. Fill puree (while hot) in sterilized glass bottles and seal.
9. Process or sterilize filled containers in boiling water (100°C or 212°F) for 20 minutes.
10. Air cool and store in dry cool place.


MANGO LEATHER

INGREDIENTS UTENSILS:

ripe mangoes (carabao var.) stainless steel knife
pure refined white sugar (optional) stainless steel/plastic mixing bowls
stainless steel basting spoon
blender
double boiler

PACKAGING MATERIAL:

OPP/Met foil/PE plastic bags casserole
PE bags (0.003mm thickness) stove
thermometer

PROCEDURE:

1. Select mature table ripe mangoes, preferably the carabao variety.
2. Sort out and grade to ensure uniformity of size.
3. Weigh.
4. Wash in clean tap water to remove surface dirt.
5. Soak in 150 to 200 ppm chlorinated water for 10 minutes to reduce microbial load.
6. Drain. Slice mango along its lateral axis from both sides of the middle seed section. Scoop out mango flesh. Peel seeds. Scrape the edible pulp avoiding the fiber portion.
7. Blend thoroughly to obtain a homogenous mixture.
8. Check TSS. Adjust the soluble solids content of the puree to 20°Brix using pure refined white sugar.
9. Pasteurize the mango puree (80° to 82°C for 15 minutes) using double boiler.
10. Spread puree evenly on stainless steel trays.
12. Dry in a cabinet dryer at 60 ± 5°C for 10-14 hours. Drying may be done in a solar dryer as long as drying area is clean and free from dust and flies, rodents and other insects.
13. Remove from trays and loosely pack mango leather in ordinary plastic bags. Allow mango to sweat at ambient condition for 18-20 hours.
14. Coat mango leather with confectioner's sugar to remove filmy and shiny appearance.
15. Cut into desired sizes and shapes.
16. Pack in appropriate packaging materials. Seal.
17. Pack in carton boxes. Label and store in a cool, dry place.

Source: DOST, photo courtesy of www.kriyayoga.com, lickyourownbowl.files.wordpress.com

Orchid Production Guide

Orchids (Orchidaceae family) are the largest and most diverse of the flowering plants (Angiospermae) families, with over 800 described genera and 25,000 species. Some sources give 30,000 species, but the exact number is unknown since classification differs greatly in the academic world. Revisions of different genera occur on a monthly basis and this will increase with the growing use of genetic research and biochemistry. There are another 100,000+ hybrids and cultivars produced by horticulturists, created since the introduction of tropical species in the 19th century. The Kew World Checklist of Orchids includes about 24,000 accepted species. About 800 new species are added each year. Orchids, through their interactions with pollinators and their symbiosis with orchid mycorrhizal fungi, are considered by some, along with the grasses, to be examples of the most advanced (derived) floral evolution known.

All orchid species are protected for the purposes of international commerce under CITES as potentially threatened or endangered in their natural habitat, with most species listed under Appendix II. A number of species and genera are afforded protection under Appendix I, including all of Paphiopedilum and all of Phragmipedium. Many other species are protected by both international and national legislation, while hybrids are specifically exempted.

MORPHOLOGY

Growth Habit

Orchids are grouped according to two basic growth habits, namely: monopodials and sympodials.

Monopodials are orchids with one main stem with grow taller every year. The stem lengthens, adding new leaves to the top and aerial roots occasionally form along main stem. Flowers are always borne laterally (between leaves) and successively from older nodes towards young nodes. Monopodials include Phalaenopsis, Arachnis, Vanilla, Aerides, Vandopsis, Vanda, Phyncostylis, Ascocentrum and Trichoglottis.

Sympodials are orchids with creeping ground stem or rhizome which sends out shoot which eventually develops into stem and leaves. This new growth produces its own roots and leaves at maturity. Flowers are formed at the terminals or at the sides of the stem. After flowering, another shoot is formed at the base of the proceeding growth to repeat the cycle. The stem is sometimes thickened and fleshy, forming pseudobulbs. Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Coelogyne, Bulbophyllum, are examples of orchid general with sympodial growth habit.

Flower

Despite the complexity of the variety of orchid flowers, the structure is like any monocot flower. There are three similar sepals and petals but one of the petals is highly modified into an attractive structure known as labellum or lip. The lip attracts pollinators and serves as landing platform for pollinating insects. In the center of the flower is an organ called gynostagium, gynandium, or column. On the inner side of the column is the stigma, a shallow depression which produces a sticky solution where pollinia are deposited.

Orchid Plants

Unlike seeds of other flowering plants, orchid seeds are so minute consisting of an embryo with little or no stored food. Orchid seeds are produced literally by the thousands or even millions (Cattleya labiata) but only a few develop into mature plants.

Life of orchid seed is very critical during early stages of germination. Unless a symbiotic relationship with a beneficial fungus is established, orchid seed will die. The fungal aid or mycorrhiza is a mass of fungus hyphae, usually of species Rhizoctonia. During germination, mycorrhiza infects the basal end of the seed and releases an enzyme which converts starch, an energy of germination and enhances further its development. Orchids are limited to the environment with suitable fungus, where sugar and amino-nitrogen compounds are readily available for seed germination.

GENERA/SPECIES/HYBRIDS

The family Orchidacease consists of about 20,000 to 35,000 species distributed into 800 genera. This constitutes roughly 10% of all flowering plants in the plant kingdom. There are many hybrids and cultivated forms which continue to increase at an average rate of more than 1,000 per year.

Many endemic species are found in the Philippines, which have gained worldwide recognition by orchidists. There are about 130 genera and 941 species, of which 25 genera and 140 species based on consecutive estimates are of commercial value.

Dendrobium

The genus Dendrobium contains a very large number of heterogenous species. It has erect, cane-type pseudobulb and bears flowers with relatively long vase-like.

This group is naturally distributed in warm and humid areas, thus resulting hybrids require warm and humid environment with abundant sunlight for optimum growth and development.

In the Philippines, the Dendrobium group includes among others Den. Taurinum Lindl., Den. Stratioles Reichb. f., Den. Superbeins Reichb.f., Den. Phalaenopsis Fitsp., Den Biggibum Lindl.

Hybrids

In the Philippines, the following Dendrobium hybrids appear promising for cutflower production: Purple: Den. Tomie, Jacquelyn Concert, Den. Norman Jackson, Den. Vera Patterson x Den. Betty Hecht; Off-White- Den. Jacquelyn Thomas; Yellow: Den. May Neal Crosses, Mary Mac, Bethy Ho; White: Den Water Oumme, Den. Neo Hawaii, Den. Jack Hawaii, Den. Multico White, Den. Jacqueline Thomas x Den. Alice Spalding, Den. Singapore White.

Vanda

This group is generally sun-loving and robust with colorful, beautifully-shaped flowers, heavy substance and long-lasting.

Vandas are divided into three: 1) strap-leaf; 2) terete; 3) semi-terete.

Strap-leaf Vandas - These are epiphytes with flat, channeled leaves. These include V. Sanderana, V. Luzonica, V. Lamellata, V. Coerules, V. Limbata. Some strap-leaf hybrids for cutflower have performed and flowered well locally. These are: V. Rotchildiana, V. Veraruth, V. Lenavat, V. Laurel Yap and V. Onomea.

Terete Vanda - Mostly terrestial plants with cylindrical, pencil-like leaves. Most commercially important hybrid is V. Miss Joaquin.

Semi-terete Vanda - highly floriferous, making them desirable for cutflower. These are derived from crossing terete hybrid with strap leaf species/hybrid.
The following hybrids are found to flower well under local conditions: V. Josephine van Brero, V. Tanancy Yan, V.T.M.A., V. Patricia Low, V. Emma van Davente and V. Velthius crosses.

CATTLEYA AND ITS ALLIES

Modern Cattleyas consists of a complex group of hybrids created by combining cattleya species or hybridization with closely allied genera such as Laelia, Brassavola, Broughtonia. Known as "Cattleya Alliance", these are natives in Brazil, Columbia, Central America and Mexico. Genus Cattleya is a very interesting diversified group of orchids with broad spectrum of colors and types.

Some of the more famous hybrids are:

Purple Cattleyas, like Lc. Bonanza, Blc. Norman's Bay, Bc. Culminant;
White Cattleyas, like C. Bow Bells, C. Bob Betts, C. General Patton, and C. General Japhet;
Semi-Alba Cattleyas - also caled white with colored lip. Hybrids derived from C. Mossiae and C. Warscewiczis which are white with purple lips;
Yellow Cattleyas - Blc. Malworth, Blc. Jane Helton, Blc. Malvern and Lc. Lorraine Shirai; and
Red Cattleyas - Slc. Falcon "Alwanderi", Slc. Jewel Box, Lc. Desert Orange and Lc. Rojo.

PHALAENOPSIS

The graceful bearing of the Phalaenopsis, whether native species or advanced hybrids is quite pleasing to the eye. The long, slender flower stalk bears the flower high and the arcs away from the leaves appearing fragile yet regal.

Some promising species are P. Amabilis, P. Stuartiana, P. Schilleriana, P. Equestris, P. Leuddemaniana and P. Sanderara.

The following hybrids are promising for cutflower production:

Large White - Phal Anne Cavaco, P. Grace Palm, P. Dos Pueblos and P. Quisumbing;
White with Red Lip - Phal. Eva Lou, P. Queen Emma and P. Ruby lips; and
White Stripes - Phal. Percy Porter

GROWTH REQUIREMENTS

Basically, the growth requirements of any plants are temperature, water, light, aeration and nutrition. These are the environmental factors which a good grower should try to stimulate for each type of orchids.

Temperature - cool-growing orchids prefer night temperature of 10oC to 18.3oC (150 oF-65 oF) and 15.6 oC to 21oC (60 oF-70 oF) day temperature, like Cymbidiums, Odontoglossums and some Phaphiopedilums.

For the intermediate group like Cattleyas, some Dendrobiums and Oncidiums, night temperature needed is 12.8 oC to 15 oC (55 oF-60 oF) and day temperature ranges from 18.3 oC to 21 oC (65 oF-75 oF).

Most orchids grown in the Philippines are warm-growing where night temperature is below 18.3oC and day temperature rising to 21oC to 32 oC. thse temperatures are ideal for growing Renanthera, Vandas, Phalaenopsis, Aerides, Trichoglottis and Dendrobiums.

Light - sun-loving orchids are Arachnis, Renanthera, Arandas, and terete and semi-terete Vandas.

Partial shade orchids need lower light intensity for healthy growth. Example: Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleyas, and strap leaf Vandas.

Orchid plants which receive enough light have short plump stems with yellowish-green leather leaves. Those receiving too much sunlight are yellowish, stunted and even scorched. Those under too much shade become green, soft and succulent with thin spindly stems.

Water - generally, orchids prefer an atmosphere where relative humidity ranges from 50% to 85%. A constantly saturated atmosphere (100% relative humidity) is just as harmful as constantly dry environment. High humidity and relatively low night temperature are conducive to the development of many diseases and pathogens especially soft rot. Growers often water the plants early in the morning so that before nightfall, the leaves are already dry. During sunny days, it may be necessary to increase humidity of the atmosphere by misting or wetting orchid house floor to enhance vaporization.

The need and frequency of watering depend on interacting factors, such as size of containers, potting media, temperature, light intensity and air movement. Orchids in large containers dry out more slowly than those in smaller pots. Plants in baskets, twigs and slabs require more water than those in pots. During drier months, more frequent watering is required. Plants suffering from lack of water become flaccid and stems and pseudobulbs become shrivelled.

Aeration - orchids must have free circulating air around them. Orchids are found where there is constant breeze. Stagnant air does not allow drying of potting medium and foliage.

Nutrition - apply fertilizer either through liquid or dry method. By liquid feeding, dissolve water soluble salts and apply resulting dilute solution to plant.

The amount and kind of fertilizer required by orchids depend upon growing conditions, potting media, species and stage of development.

Young seedlings are usually given dilute solution of nitrogenous fertilizers or complete fertilizers with higher nitrogen content plus phosphorous and potassium (4-1-1 or 2-1-1). Pig manures, chicken or fish emulsion may be prepared and applied once a week or once a month. As plant gets older, increase phosphorous and potassium level correspondingly.

Generally, under conditions of more frequent rainfall, practice more frequent fertilization as leaching is higher. When plants are dormant or inactive, do not fertilize plants. Plants exposed to higher light intensities also require higher fertilizer or nutrients than those grown under heavier shade.

Potting and Repotting - potting of orchids varies according to genera or species.

For Cattleyas, some growers use clay pots with charcoal as potting medium. Remember not to over pot them as medium remains wet for a long time in big pots. Place the bulb close to rim of pot with the lead towards center.

An old Cattleya needs repotting when the plant has overgrown its pot and when potting materials has deteriorated.

For Vandas and Ascocendas, small seedlings are potted with little osmunda fiber and a little charcoal. For older plants, coarse tree fern or charcoal maybe used for potting. Another method is by mounting them in twigs on driftwoods or by hanging them in wooden baskets.

For Dendrobium, pot them in clay pots or mount them on driftwoods. For large-scale production, clay pots with charcoal are ideal.

For Phalaenopsis, mount them in acacia or kakawati wood cuttings, or fern slabs. Or mount them in pots with charcoal and little osmunda fiber.

In potting, the general rule to remember is to allow quick and complete drainage of the potting medium.

Some types of orchids are planted directly in well-drained bed or in soil pots.

PROPAGATION

There are two groups of propagating orchids; asexual (vegetative propagation) and sexual (seed and embryo culture).

Asexual or Vegetative Propagation

Vegetative propagation can be done in any of the following methods:

Division - Cattleya, Dendrobium, Paphiopedilum and Cymbidium can be multiplied through division. Separate three to four canes or bulbs from mother plant to form new plants by cutting through rhizome and pot them individually.

Formulation of Keikis and offshots - occasionally, a bud will give rise to a young plant at the top, side of pseudobulbs, canes or at the nodes of flowering stem. The Hawaiians call these young plantlets from vegetative or flowering stem 'keikis'. Filipinos call them 'anak'. Once the young new roots develop, remove plantlets and pot separately.

Top cutting - monopodial orchids, such as Vandas, Ascocendas, Arachnis, Renanthera, Trichoglottis, and even Phalaenopsis and Doritis, are best propagated by top cutting. When plant becomes leggy, cut off top part, retain few roots and pot it separately. New roots develop readily by top cutting.

Tissue Culture - Tissue culture is one of the most rapid methods of multiplying vegetative plant. It develops new plants in an artificial medium under aseptic conditions from very small parts of plants, such as shoots tip, root tip, pollen grain. Thousands or even millions of identical plants can be produced from a small tissue in a relatively short time.

Sexual Propagation or Seed Embryo Culture

Orchid sexual propagation is done through seed embryo culture. Orchid seed is so minute, devoid of stored food for seed germination. However, during germination, fungi infect orchid seeds and help convert complex starch to simple sugars, which serve as energy source. That fungi and orchids have symbiotic relationship during germination.

Under artificial or laboratory conditions, a sterile artificial medium with sugar and other nutrients is required. Through research, an excellent medium for growing seeds without fungi was developed. Inside the bottle where orchid seedling is grown is a miniature glasshouse which protect seedlings from unfavorable environmental conditions. Using artificial media has insured the growing of nearly all orchid seeds into mature plants.

Flasking and reflasking or protocorms - when orchid seed or embryo is planted in a culture bottle, numerous seedlings germinate in a very limited space with little available food. The first sign of successful germination is when orchid seed starts to swell and turns green. As growth continues, the embryo becomes bigger and assumes a flattened top shape called protocorm. A small amount of seed sown produce hundreds of tiny photocorms growing in limited space. At this stage, transplant them into fresh medium and table for further development and rapid growth.

Composting and Repotting Seedlings - Orchid seedlings are ready to be transplanted from culture bottles when roots and leaves are fully developed. Dendrobiums may be potted after 4 to 6 months. Vandas, Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas in 6 to 8 months after reflasking before seedlings are ready for community pots. Seedlings should be potted only in sterile potting medium and pots to avoid damping-off.

Potting medium may consists of sterilized fine Osmunda fibers, charcoal, chopped tree fern (paslak).

After removing seedlings from bottles, wash out all agar from seedlings and wash them in fungicide suspension. Drain excess moisture and sort out seedlings according to size. Small seedlings are planted in community pots, while the bigger ones are potted individually in small pots.

FLOWERING

Like most plants, orchids must attain a certain degree of vegetative growth before they are capable of flowering. This is referred to as the stage of ripeness to flower.

For Phalaenopsis, the minimum number of leaves is 3 before they will flower, 8 in Vandas, and 14 in Aranda. Vegetative growth of seedlings can be accelerated to attain the stage of ripeness to flower. Optimum growing conditions such as high temperature, humidity, adequate and continuous light, frequent application of dilute fertlizer have shown hastening of flowering in Vanda and Phalaenopsis.

Factor affecting flower bud initiation

Photoperiodism - is the development of plants as conditioned by the length or duration of light. There are 3 orchid categories based on their response to photoperiod: 1) short-day; 2) day-neutral; and 3) long-day groups.
Temperature - for some orchids, low temperature is required to induce flowering. Temperature interacts with photoperiod as regards to flower induction. Some orchids required low temperature to induce flowering, as follows: Cymbidium, Cattleya Mossiae; Dendrobium, Phaphiopedium, Phalaenopsis, Schilleriana.

HARVESTING

Orchids flowers do not mature until 3 to 4 days after they open. It is important to know how old the blooms are before harvesting. Flowers cut before they mature will not hold up nor last as longer as the matured flowers. Spray-type orchid present no problem. Each floret opens 1 ½ to 2 days apart. If 3 or more flowers are open on the spike, the lower flower is mature and can be separated.


SOURCE: Department of Agriculture, Philippines, photo courtesy of www.theorchidman.com