Oct 27, 2007

Carrots Farming


Carrot is a biennial crop. The leaves are feather like with long petioles and they are severally divided into sections. The sheath of the petiole opens at the base. The flowers are white, small and borne in compound terminal umbels. Carrot is propagated by seeds. The thickened fleshy root is the edible portion. The shape, color and size of the root vary according to varieties.

Importance:

Carrot gained importance in the human diet because of its nutritive value. The edible root is an excellent source of Vitamin A. It also contains appreciable amounts of food energy and many other food nutrients necessary for the body.

Varieties:

New Kuroda - Root is dark red, tapered with the length of 16 to 20 cm. Strong vigorous plant. Tolerant to Alternaria. Maturity days 80 to 100 days.

F1 Japan Cross - Kuroda hybrid type resistant to heat. Maturity from sowing, 110 to 120 on cool season, 90 to 95 days in hot season. Vigorous plant. roots are along slightly tapered, with uniform dark red color, 18 to 20 cm long. Resistant to Alternaria. High yield 30 to 35 tons per ha.

Other varieties include:

Nantes Improved, Touchon, Chantenay, Colmar, F1 Amazonia.

Adaptation:

Climatic and Soil Requirements - Carrot is known to be a temperate and semi temperate crop. In the Philippines, it can grown successfully at high levations with a cool environment. It can also be grown in lowland areas but the growing period should be during the cool months of the year if good stand and yield are desired. The crop is usually planted from October to December.

The optimum pH for carrot is about 5.5 to 7.0. It has little tolerance to high salt content, but is moderately tolerant to high boron in the soil. It requires a very deep, well drained soil preferably sandy loam. However, careful control of soil moisture by furrow irrigation permits use of heavier soil than is recommended.

Carrot can also be planted in loam and slit loam soils but it is usually difficult to establish good stands in these soil, unless crust formation can be avoided. Clay soils impair root shape, and harvesting from clay soils is difficult. Coarse, undecomposed, organic matter in the surface soil tends to impair root shape.

Nutrients - Little is known in the Philippines as to the nutritional requirements of carrot, except that when applied with the correct amount of complete fertilizer, it responds satisfactorily.

Requirements:

Field Preparation - The land should be plowed and harrowed several times until a fine filth is attained. Thorough field preparation is very necessary for the plant because it is small- seeded and usually planted direct in the field. Besides, field preparation seems to have something to do with the development of the roots. Crops planted in a well-prepared field seem to have better well-shaped, marketable roots than plants grown in a poorly prepared soil which tend to have irregularly-shaped
roots.

Planting and spacing - Carrot is usually directly seeded. In a small plantation or backyard garden, it is either broadcast or planted in furrows spaced 20 cm. between rows and about 5 cm. In the row, on a slightly elevated plot. In big commercial plantation, seeds are drilled evenly or planted in hills in shallow furrows, about 1 to 2 cm. deep, covered with a thin layer of fine soil. The spacing is about 20 to 30 cm between rows and about 5 cm. in the row.

The seed requirement per hectare will depend much on the percentage of germination and spacing. The lower the percentage of germination and the closer the planting, the more seeds are required per hectare. Under normal conditions, that is, if the germination is from 80 to 90 percent, a hectare usually requires 4 to 6 kg. of seeds.

Cultivation and thinning - Carrot is a slow starter plant both in terms of germination and growth at the seedling stage. It germinates after ,six to 21 days from sowing at a temperature of about 20 to 24 degree centigrade. At seedling stage, the plants are slender and incapable of competing with the weeds. It is therefore, advisable to keep weeds completely down at the early stages of growth of the plants to have a good uniform stand. Shallow cultivation is started as soon as the first true leaves appear.

Thinning is done only when the plants are about 15 cm. in height. At this stage, the plants are already more or less established. It is also recommended that during the last cultivation, this soils be thrown toward the base of the plants to avoid the development of green pigments on the shoulder of the roots which may effect their market value.

Irrigation - Carrots need a constant supply of moisture throughout the growing season to produce uniform and tender quality roots. In areas with adequate rainfall or with enough soil moisture during the growing season, irrigation can be dispensed with. In places with less rainfall or soil moisture, irrigation is profitable. Frequent, light irrigation is preferable to heavy irrigation. Never allow water to stay too long in the field as this would encourage root disease and rotting.

Crop rotation - Planting of crops alternately in a piece of land is a good agricultural practice not only in the control of pests and diseases but also in maintaining the soil productivity. The rotation should be planned according to the purpose of the grower. If the rotation is designed for the control of pest and diseases, the crop to be rotated should not be an alternate host of the pest of disease-causing agent; if for the maintenance of soil fertility, planting of leguminous crops after carrot is suggested. In soil heavily infested with root-knot nematodes, it is advisable to rotate with corn, sorghum and some resistant varieties of cowpea, peanut or beans.

Fertilizer application - In the absence of soil analysis, it is advisable to use 500 to 600 kg. of the complete fertilizer (14-14-14) or (12-12-12) per hectare. It must be broadcast during the last harrowing and properly incorporated with the soil before planting.

Control of Pests and Diseases

Pests and their Control:

1. Cutworm, Prodenia litura Fabricius. The larva is a brown worm about 5 cm long. The adults are blackish gray both have pale marks across the wings, about 2 cm long. The eggs are laid on the lower surface of leaves in a mass several hundreds and covered with mooted hair. The worm feeds at night and hides in the soil during the day. The larva feeds on leaves and stems of young plants.

Control - Spray with Sevin, Methylparathion or Parathion.

2. Aphids, Aphis sp. Small, greenish insects, winged or wingless. They reproduce rapidly. They feed on the leaves of the plant.

Control - Spray with Sevin, Malathion and other systemic insecticides
found in the market.

3. Root nematode or gall-worm or eel worm, causes root knot and is scientifically known as Meloidogyne sp. It is worm ordinarily too small to be seen by the naked eye. It is disseminated by means of infected soil, water and diseased root crops.

In root-knot, the tissue is stimulated to abnormal growth so that the invaded roots become two to three times larger in diameter than normal and finally they decay. The top of the plant, being robbed of the food which goes to the swollen roots and at the same time deprived of water absorbing area, is stunted, pale and inclined to wilt. The affected plants may linger through the growing season, although most of them die prematurely.

Control - Long rotation with crops highly resistant to the lest like corn, sorghum and some resistant varieties of cowpea, peanut and beans is recommended.

Diseases and their Control:

1. Bacterial blight (caused by Xanthomonas carotae) the first symptoms are yellow spots on the tips of leaf segments. They rapidly turn brown and get a water soaked appearance. A yellowish circle often subtends the black center of the lesion. Entire leaf segments or leaflets are killed. Lower leaves die and dry up as the disease advances. In severe infections, long dark-brown, water soaked lesions develop on the petioles and main stem. A gummy, bacterial substance frequently collects on them.

The affected roots may show small, water soaked greasy flecks or scab-like lesions at any point on the surface. They first appear as brown or maroon spots, which may become raised pustules or sunken craters.

The large craters usually crack open and are drilled with soil particles embedded in the bacterial oose. Often, internal lesions heal over to enclose the scab lesion.

Control - The bacteria persist in the soil and are commonly carried by the seed. Seed may be disinfected by soaking in hot water at 120 degree F for 10 minutes. Control also requires adequate crop rotation.

2. Bacterial soft rot ( caused by Erwinia carotovora). It is one of the most destructive diseases of carrot and other vegetables in storage and transit. The disease is recognized by a watery, smelly, soft decay on storage tissue. It normally invades plants through wounds.

Control - Avoid bruising the roots during harvest. Cool, dry storage will help in the control of the disease.

3. Cercospora blight (caused by Cercospora carotae). The disease is more severe in young leaves than in old leaves. Lesions are usually marginal although any part of the leaf or petiole may be attacked. It is characterized by gray to brown, circular or elongated, localized spots that are usually whitish or tan at the center.

Control - Crop rotation. Spray weekly with Maneb and Zineb until the crop is mature.

Harvesting, Curing and Storing:

Harvesting and Handling - Crops planted for early market are harvested as soon as the roots reach the acceptable size. This is about three to six months after sowing, depending upon the variety. Yellowing of leaves may indicate maturity but it is not a sure index. The surest and most practical way to determine the size of the roots is to scratch the base of the plants and to see the actual size of the roots by pulling some samples in the population.

Carrots are pulled when they have the desires root size. The roots are highly variable in size and maturity. If harvested at one time, considerable loss in total yield may result. Therefore, it is possible, carrot should be harvested one after the other as they mature.

Sorting should be done as they are harvested or gatherer from the field. Split and branched roots should be discarded. If the crop will be marketed in bunch, only dried leaves should be removed. Bunching maybe one right in the field or in the shed. Leaves should be cut to the minimum to avoid rapid with ring or shrinking of the roots. The tops are removed by cutting or twisting by hand right after the crop is pulled or harvested.

Top of carrot draw moisture from the roots and hasten shriveling removing the tops doubles the shelf life of the roots. Removing tops and packing them in one pound, moisture-proof film bags further reduce moisture loss and increase shelf life.

Bunched carrots when displayed six days at 70 degree F with 50 percent relative humidity lose 48 percent in weight; with tops removed, 29 percent; and in a perforated polyethylene bag, 4 per cent. Under refrigeration, polyethylene packaged carrots have a shelf life of at least two to three weeks and moisture loss is usually less than one per cent.

Reference: Cultural Directions for Phil. Agricultural Crops. Photo courtesy of http://library.thinkquest.org

Asparagus Farming


A native to temperate Europe and Western Asia, asparagus has perennial roots, which sends up each year an erect branching stem several feet in height. One of the most delicate, wholesome and appetizing products of the garden, its new shoots are juicy and succulent both for use as table vegetable and canning purpose.

Varieties:

There are few varieties of asparagus in the country. GREEN SEEDS COMPANY LTD offer four varieties: Mary Washington and F1 UC 157 which are of green type, and Argenteuil and F1 Larac which are of white type.

Adaptation:

Asparagus grows best in cold places like Baguio and the Mt.Province, and high-elevated areas in Mindanao, like Bukidnon.

Planting and spacing

Propagation is done through the use of crowns raised from seeds in seedbeds. In small scale planting, crown are raised by hand-drilling seeds in rich, well-prepared seed beds 18 to 30 cm. Apart for commercial production, crowns are produced by drilling seeds with mechanical drillers preferably those that drop one seed in a hill at about 8 cm intervals. The rows may be spaced 120 to 180 cm. apart depending on the tools to be used for cultivation. Asparagus crowns are allowed to grow for one full growing season before being planted in a permanent field or bed.

The crown are dug and lifted out with a short-handed fork, care being taken so as not to injure them. Plant the newly dug crowns as soon as possible since desiccation or drying slows growth.

The depth of planting varies from 15 to 33 cm depending on the physical characteristics of the soil and the products desired. Regardless of the depth of the furrows, the crowns must be placed with the buds up, 5 to 7 cm. deep in the furrows at planting time. Distance of planting varies considerably but the usual practice is planting 60 to 90 cm. apart between plants in the row and 120 to 180 cm. apart between rows. In deep planting, hilling-up and wider spacing between hills and furrows are given to asparagus raised for bunched stalks.

Cultivation:

In the seedling stage, the plants must be kept free from weeds by shallow cultivation. Deep cultivation by hoe is recommended with care being
taken not to destroy the roots.

In the permanent field or bed, the general care given is much different from that applied to other vegetable crops. The plants stay in the same area for many years.

After the first and succeeding years, it is best to pass the disc and harrow in between the rows before growth begins. The field is kept free from volunteer plant and weeds by proper cultivation.

Irrigation:

Moisture is an important factor in the production of shoots; thus irrigation has to be applied liberally during the dry season.

Inter-cropping:

This farm practice is a laudable operation in the management of an asparagus garden for it reduces the cost of cultivation and weeding and it utilizes the wide spaces between the rows of asparagus plants. The intercrops recommended are the bushy legumes such as snap beans, peas, and soybeans; leafy vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, Pak Choi (petchay) and root crops, such as carrots, radish and sugar beets. The legumes and the leafy vegetables require frequent hoeing and fertilization, which are advantageous to the culture of green asparagus shoots. The practice will produce more robust shoots.

Fertilization:

The productive life of asparagus plant depends on greatly on the treatment it receives. An established bed, which receives good cultivation and liberal application each year, may yield profitable from 15 to 20 years. The best amount of fertilizer to use is about 35 tons of compost mixed with 400 kilos of complete fertilizer per hectare. It is suggested that 2/3 of the amount be applied every year before the start of growth or before rainfalls and the remaining 1/3 at the start of the dry season.

Care has to be taken to avoid injury to the crown and other shoots. The knife is inserted outward to cut off the stalk. One thrust with knife is sufficient. The shoots are then washed, bundled and packed before marketing.

Pests and their control:

So far the only known pest of asparagus in the Philippines is the mealy bug, Ferrisia Virgata Ckll. The bugs feed on the foliage and green portions of the plants, thus rendering them sickly with retarded growth. The control measures are the following :(1) cutting and burning the infested portion, and (2) spraying the plants every two weeks with Sevin at the rate of one or two tablespoonfuls per gallon of water.

Diseases and their control:

1. Asparagus rust - The diseases is caused by Puccinia asparagi. The typical symptom is the presence of small reddish-yellow spots on the main stem and on branches. As the diseases develops, the spots enlarge into patches until the whole plant becomes reddish-brown or orange and later becomes darker.

Control is by spraying the plants, while still moist with dew, with lime sulfur at the manufacture’s recommended dosage every two weeks.

Tropical varieties that are tolerant to asparagus rust are: Mary Washington and Argenteuil.

2. Fusarium wilt - Spears affected with this disease show a brown discoloration of the surface and become stunted and wilted. So far, no effective control has been developed except to avoid planting in infested areas and to use crowns raised on disease-free beds.

Harvesting, cutting and storing:

The first harvest of asparagus is made at the start of the third season or after the plants have had two full growing seasons in a permanent bed.

Asparagus is harvested everyday during the regular cutting season, which lasts from 8 to 14 weeks. If the weather is too hot, the growth of asparagus is accelerated, thus visiting the field twice is advisable.

In cutting asparagus, one hand takes hold of the shoot while the other inserts the knife to the desired depth usually two to five cm. bellow the soil surface.

Reference: Cultural Directions for Phil. Agricultural Crops, Photo courtesy of www.all-creatures.org