Jun 27, 2007

Radish Farming



Almost every part of the radish plant is useful. The leaves and roots may be eaten raw or cooked as vegetable, or cooked with meat or fish.

Besides its use as food, radish is also used in many other ways its oil doesn't dry up like ordinary oil. This is used in soapmaking the meat after juice extraction is used as fertilizer. Radish is also medicine for diseases of the liver and spleen.

There are two kinds of radish. One is planted for its crop and the other for its leaves and roots. The different varieties we have are:

Japanese radish -- big and long, late harvested

Chinese radish -- fine, smooth and white, productive and has moderate length of time for harvest

White icicle -- early harvest, rounded, long with small roots.

Bombay, 60 Days and others -- can harvest within 100 days from planting, and mature 30 days from germination.

Land Preparation

1. Plow and harrow the field lengthwise and crosswise, and leave it for seven days to allow the uprooted weeds to rot and their seeds to grow.
2. Plow and harrow as before, repeat a third time but deeper.
3. Make elevated beds about one-half meter away from each other.
4. Put fertilizer where plants will be grown mix this with the soil by means of a rake.

Planting

A hectare of land would accommodate about 100 grams of seeds. Apply a kerosene can of compost before planting (see no. 8)

1. Treat the seeds first in growth regulator like "Seet Treat."
2. Mix one teaspoon Orthocide 50 WP per kilo of seeds to check whatever diseases they may have.
3. Prepare the planting of the seeds. To make them evenly apart, use a string attached to both ends -- one at 10 cm, a second at 40 cm, etc.
4. With the aid of a pointed stick, make a hole one and a half (1½) cm deep and 10 cm apart,following the distance of the string.
5. Drop two seeds in each hole and cover with fine soil. Water with fine spray so as not to dislodge the seeds or remove the top soil.
6. Cover with straw about 5-10 cm thick between the rows of plants, with space of about 5 cm from the plant. Don't cover the seed especially if it has not germinated. Keep away chicken from scratching the seeds away. The straw or dried leaves serve to protect the plants from strong rain or intense heat, and from growing weeds.
7. Water morning and afternoon in the first three (3) days after planting don't allow them to get dry. When the seeds germinate, water only in the morning. Ten days after all have germinated, water only in the afternoon when the ground is dry.
8. Dig a canal around the plot about 30 cm wide and 40 cm deep to where the water will run in case of heavy rain.
9. Before planting, mix a can of compost to every 2 sq. meters of plot. If animal manure will be used, apply this after the first plowing: one can per sq. meter. If chemical fertilizer will be used, have the soil analyzed first at the Bureau of Soils Laboratory. If not, the National Food and Agricultural Council recommends 8 bags of ammonium sulfate for every hectare of radish plants.

Maintenance

When the soil around the plant becomes compact, loosen it especially when the roots are beginning to grow. Be careful not to hurt the roots. If in spite of putting straw or dried leaves, weeds continue to grow, remove them manually.

Pests

To control insect pests, spray any of the following: Orthene 75 SP, SD, Tamaron 600 EC, Phosdrin 1.5 Ec, Hostathion 40 EC, or Vegetox, following instructions on the label, at an interval of 7 days. Trapping by means of light helps to control insect pests.

Diseases

A soil-borne or seed borne disease of radish attacks the new plant when the soil is very wet. As mentioned earlier, treat the seeds with orthocide or Spergon Fermate or Zerlate -- one-half teaspoon per gallon water. The black rot disease has a V-shape on the leaves. The leaves turn yellow then fall off. There is a black ring around the body when the leaf is removed.

Harvesting

Different varieties have different times of maturity, from 30 days from germination to 100 days after planting. Thus, it is good to know the variety to be planted, or try ten plants first. When overmature, radish is fibrous, porous and doesn't taste good. Pull up the crop when harvesting in early morning or late afternoon. Don't harvest when the sun is hot because it will wilt immediately. Wash, bundle and bring to market first hour in the morning. Don't pile them too high so as not bruise the crops, and to avoid heating for the crops under the pile.

Seeding

Get seeds only from healthy plants. Let these flower and bear seeds. Apply 2 grams ammonium sulfate, and water daily. Maintain with care until the fruits turn yellow. Select good seeds from good plants. When the pods are over mature, these will burst open. Dry the seeds in the sun to kill pests or disease. Before storing them, mix a little DDT or Orthocide 50 WP before packing. Put in a jar with fine charcoal at the bottom and over it a piece of cardboard with holes. Label jar. Seal the cover with masking tape until the next planting season.

Source: Greenfields November 1992, photo courtesy of www.nandyala.org, and www.greenharvest.com.au

Jun 26, 2007

Lemon Juice: Potential Abaca Fiber Bleach


Abaca, popularly known as Manila Hemp, is primarily used in the manufacture of marine cordage,pulp and paper products, nonwoven fabrics and disposable items. Many cottage industries utilize the best grade abaca fibers in the producton of quality items. Best grade fibers meet the standards for tensile trength, color, texture, luster and cleanness. Obviously,items produced from quality fibers (whitish in color) command a high price than those made from poor abaca (brownish in color).

People engaged in cottage fibercraft industries procure abaca fibers in bulk which are often improperly storedfor some time. Under this condition fiber discoloration occurs. To improve the color of abaca fibers, a bleaching treatment is applied. A study aimed at determining the best bleaching method for abaca fibers was conducted at the Visayas Stage College of Agriculture (VISCA). Abaca fibers from the middle sheaths of Linawaan variety were treated with chemical bleaches (sodium perborate, sodium hypochlorite, and chlorux with 10%, 20%, #)% and 40 % concentrations each) and natural bleaches (fresh mature camias leaves, camias fruit juice, and lemon juice at concentraitons of 20%, 40%, 60%, and 80% each). Fibers subjected to chemical treatments under a 30-minute heating at 85 f, while those treated with natural bleaches were soaked for six hours. Immediately after these treatments, the samples were thoroughly rinsed in cold water and then air-dried at room temperature.

Color

Untreated fibers (control) were ecru in colr which could be attributed to the darkening of the puld and the adhering impurities. When the samples were treated with chemical and natural bleaching agents, the color chaged. Fibers treated with lemon and camias fruit juices turned to light ivory and light ecru, respectively, in all treatments. Camias leaves produced a light cream color, except in one treatment with chemical bleaches which produced lemon frost fibers.

The change in color when treated with natural bleaches could be attributed to the acid contents of the bleaching agents-oxalic in camias and citric in lemons.

Texture and luster Texture of the fibers may either be soft, medium soft, medium coarse, and harsh or coarse. Among the natural bleaches, the treatment with lemon juice at 80% concentration produced medium soft abaca texture- the best result in this category. However, among the chemical bleaches, sodium hypochlorite solution gave soft abaca fibers - a performance better than that of lemon juice.

Tensile strength and elongation

A significant difference in tensile strength occurred amongthe various levels of concentration (10%, 20%, 30% and 40 %) using sodium hypchlorite solution. However, the stronger the concentration of sodium hypochlorite, the weaker the fibers become. This was also true with lemon juice. No significant differences in ellongation was observed among the four treatments using both the natural and chemical bleaches.

Cost benefit analysis

Cost benefit analysis showed that natural bleaching agents are cheaper to use than chemical bleaches.

Source: PCARRD Monitor Feb-Mar 1989, photo courtesy of img.alibaba.com